![]() Water early in the day, so the excess water has time to evaporate and water from the base. Remove any dead or diseased leaves and pick up the fallen flowers, buds and leaves.ĭon’t let the plants and surrounding soil become over wet and overly humid, especially in a greenhouse. Do this when planting new plants and pruning out existing plants to create space between them. Some ways I have noticed help to prevent botrytis cinerea is to ensure there’s plenty of space between the plants to ensure good air circulation. This includes giving them the best growing conditions. I would perhaps spray plants in spring, however, I find that keeping plants healthy and growing well is the best way to prevent it in the first place. This isn’t as obvious because it has caused the stem to die back but there is no grey mould How to help prevent grey mouldĪs previously mentioned, there aren’t any fungicides that are labelled to treat grey mould it may be worth trying a general fungicide. It will thrive in a damp, cool, stagnant environment. Once it infects a plant, usually through a wounded part or even a stressed plant, throughout the growing season, it spreads further and can infect most of the plant as well as quickly spread to other plants, especially if they are overcrowded. It can appear at any time of year in greenhouses because the conditions are always right, which means it needs humid conditions. What is Botrytis Blight?īotrytis Blight is a common fungal disease (commonly known as grey mould) that’s first seen in the spring on younger shoots. Then you have peonies, cyclamen, geraniums and primulas in fact, just about any plant is at risk. To name a few that immediately spring to mind, they include snowdrops, onions, broad beans, cucumbers, courgettes, strawberries, tomatoes, blackberries and grapes. This includes ornamentals, bulbs, vegetables and fruit bushes. I have seen Botrytis infect just about any type of plant. Maintain good air circulation.Botrytis Blight on the damaged stem of a tomato plant Under wet conditions, fluffy white fungal growth (mycelium) often appears.ĭo not replant in infested areas. Infected areas of the stem turn a light tan color and may become withered and stringy. The entire plant may wilt, or only a portion of it. Stunted plants and those not growing well should be removed.Ĭan cause stem rot on peony. No treatment is recommended if plants are only mottle but are growing well. Tobacco rattle, Tomato spotted wilt, Alfalfa mosaic viruses Ringspots, light and dark green mottling on the leaves, stunting, curled leaves, and poor growth. Remove and destroy infected plants, and do not replant peonies. Wilting of shoots in the absence of damage to the crown. The base of diseased stems will often show fans of thick, ropy-textured fungal mycelium and numerous, tiny, spherical sclerotia that turn from white to brick red as they mature. Stems turn water-soaked at the base, then wilt. Plants are stunted, yellowed, wilt, and die. When mildew is observed, apply a fungicide to protect plants. Remove and destroy infected plants.įoliage becomes coated with white mycelium. Crowns may also develop a dark, wet rot.Īvoid planting in wet or poorly drained areas. Infected parts become dark brown to black and somewhat leathery, and shoots may die. Till the soil to keep it weed free for one year before replanting. Remove infected plants and do not replant there for one year. Small galls occur on roots or roots have little branching ![]() ![]() Small, reddish spots that can coalesce to form large, irregular purple blotches on leaves and stems. Avoid wounding plants at or near the soil line. Remove infected plants and surrounding soil. Galls or overgrowth of tissue form at the soil line or along the stems Later, browned buds and blighted leaves may develop masses of gray, fuzzy fungal spores.Īvoid overhead irrigation. Young shoots discolor, wilt, and fall over. Promptly remove and destroy plant debris at season end. Spotting may be accompanied by rings of dark red pigment or sometimes yellow haloes.
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